Pattern drafting is a critical aspect of garment construction that requires a thorough understanding of the measurements and proportions that impact the fit of a garment. One crucial measurement to consider when drafting patterns for stretch garments is the shoulder slope, which refers to the slope of the shoulder line and the angle at which the shoulder meets the neck.
Mathematically speaking, the slope of a line is defined as the rise divided by the run. In the case of the shoulder slope, this refers to the angle at which the shoulder line slopes downward from the base of the neck to the shoulder joint. If a pattern is drafted with the incorrect shoulder slope, the rise and run of the line will not match the natural slope of the wearer's shoulder, resulting in an inaccurate fitting garment.
For example, if a sloper or pattern is drafted with a shoulder slope that is too steep, it can cause the garment to pull uncomfortably across the chest and back, leading to discomfort and restricted movement. On the other hand, a shoulder slope that is too shallow can cause the garment to slide off the shoulder or create excess fabric around the armhole, resulting in an unflattering fit.
Generic slopers and patterns that are drafted for one single set of shoulder slopes will inevitably lead to fit issues. Unfortunately, most ready-made patterns have a generic shoulder slope that doesn't account for individual variations in shoulder slope. This can lead to a host of fit issues, such as the straps falling off the shoulders, the neckline gaping, and the armhole being too tight or too loose.
Using a generic shoulder slope from a ready-made pattern can lead to poor fitting of the garment. It is because generic patterns do not account for individual differences in shoulder slope, leading to issues such as asymmetrical fit, bunching, or pulling in the bodice, sleeves, or strap placement. As a result, the patterns may not sit well on the wearer's shoulders, leading to discomfort, restricted movement, and can even cause injury.
In contrast, drafting a pattern with the correct shoulder slope can eliminate the majority of these fit issues. By taking accurate measurements and creating a sloper with a custom shoulder slope, it is possible to ensure that the garment fits properly and feels comfortable to wear. The custom sloper can also be used as a foundation for designing a range of garments with confidence, knowing that they will fit well.
Drafting patterns with the correct shoulder slope is particularly important for garments with straps, such as tank tops, bikini tops or bras. If the shoulder slope is not correctly taken into account, the straps may not sit properly on the shoulders and can lead to discomfort or slipping. A sloper with a custom shoulder slope can eliminate these issues and ensure that the garment stays in place and fits well.
For example, let’s think of the straps of a backpack for a second. If the straps of the backpack are positioned at an angle that is too shallow, the backpack may slip off the shoulders, as the straps are not positioned correctly to provide the necessary support and lift. Alternatively, if the straps of the backpack are positioned at an angle that is too steep, the backpack may dig into the shoulders, causing discomfort and potentially causing the backpack to pull uncomfortably across the back.
Similarly, in garments with straps, the angle of the shoulder line is crucial to ensure that the straps sit in the correct position on the shoulders, providing the necessary support and lift to the bust. An incorrect shoulder slope can result in slipping straps, just like an incorrectly positioned backpack strap can cause the backpack to slip off the shoulders or dig into the shoulders.
A custom sloper with the correct shoulder slope can eliminate these issues and ensure that the garment stays in place and fits well, just like adjusting the straps on a backpack can ensure that it stays in place and is comfortable to wear.
Custom shoulder slopes can also improve the comfort of a garment, particularly in stretch fabrics where a tight fit can lead to discomfort over time. Professional garment construction requires custom drafting, which demonstrates a commitment to quality and attention to detail. Customers and clients appreciate the effort put into creating a well-fitting garment, and they are more likely to return for future purchases.
Ultimately, the goal of pattern drafting is to create garments that flatter the body and make the wearer feel confident and beautiful, and a custom shoulder slope can help achieve that. Custom shoulder slopes are an essential component of pattern drafting for stretch garments. By taking the time to create a sloper with a custom shoulder slope, it is possible to create garments that fit well, are comfortable to wear, and flatter the body. Whether creating garments for personal use or professional purposes, investing in custom pattern drafting is the key to achieving high-quality results that will be appreciated for years to come.
- R. Oh and H. K. Jeong, "Development of Shoulder Slope Information for Womenswear Pattern Drafting," International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 21, no. 1, pp. 3-17, 2009.
- Fan and J. Jin, "Analysis and Comparison of the Shoulder Slope and Drape Effects in Garment Design," International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29, no. 1, pp. 105-120, 2017.
- T. Park, Y. J. Kim, and J. Kim, "The Effects of Shoulder Slope on the Design and Fit of a Female Upper Body Garment," Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, vol. 38, no. 2, pp. 225-234, 2014.
- A. Alam and A. Basith, "Garment Fit Analysis for Shoulder Slope," International Journal of Engineering Research and Applications, vol. 6, no. 7, pp. 71-75, 2016.